Cinque Terre | Day 84 of my 2023 Journal
Ten years ago, we visited Italy in our first van conversion with all four children and my brother. We went for one day to Cinque Terre, managed to visit 3 of five cities, and had a great day.
This time we wanted to come back to walk the trails along the coast between the cities and enjoy the beauty. Now that the children are all old enough to walk long distances.
On this particular day, though, a run was planned between the cities, so all trails were closed. What a bummer! Another bummer was the lack of good information, as we only late at night realized they opened the trails again just after one.
So, here is what happened (and it was a lot). We arrived at Monterosso by train, only to realize there was parking right there, where we could have slept! Third bummer! Breathwork to not become just annoyed.
We went for a walk at the beach, found a quiet place to have our lunch, and decided to move to the next city as the noise from the runners arriving to a DJ and a commentator was too much for us. 


Vernazza was so full of tourists we were shocked. We went for a short walk and decided to leave. Not much beauty to be seen, just the good old tourist trap.
Entering the train is a story in and of itself. Our children were choked to see how it was every man for himself, and especially how young men would push old ladies back into the train to make sure they themselves got on.
The lack of manners, of simple humanity!
In Riomaggiore, things were better, but the Via Dell Amore was closed (fourth bummer), so we decided to walk the other trail to Manarola.
The one over the mountain. But first, we had magic fries, literally transforming the mood of everyone. And then we did the hardest 4 kilometers we have ever done. It was up like an extremely steep staircase up to about 270 meters and then down only slightly less steep. Beautiful, of course, but oh my!
The sun set, and we arrived at Manarola in darkness. Empty streets contrast our experience from the afternoon, the beauty emerging. Finally.
Love and light
Cecilie Conrad
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